Laying Turf: The Ultimate Guide

If you have a square of rectangle lawn area you are very fortunate because it won’t get any easier than this. Simply multiple the length by the width to reach your total. For example:

Length = 7m
Width = 5m
7m x 5m = 35m2

Measure the radius, then multiply the radius by itself and then by 3.14. For example:

Radius = 5
5m x 5m x 3.14 = 78.5m2

Measure the length and width in meters, then multiply the length by 0.80 before multiplying the result by width. For example:

Length = 18m
Width = 10m
18m x 0.80 = 14.4m
14.4m x 10m = 144m2

Measure the base and height in meters, then multiply the base by 0.50 before multiplying that by the height. For example:

Base = 12m
Height = 14m
12 x 0.50 x 14 = 84m2

Note: this page focuses on the Australian version of Buffalo, not the north American prairie grass native to Canada, Mexico.

Strong, easy to grow and low in maintenance. It is easy to see why Buffalo Grass continues to be one of the most popular lawn types. Did you ever roll around in the grass as a child only to discover you had itchy skin? Chances are you were rolling around in one of the older styles of Buffalo which had scratchy type leaves. Nowadays, most Buffalo breeds come in soft leaf varieties which means its reputation as a ‘scratchy leaf’ is a thing of the past.

Buffalo is a good all year round lawn given its drought tolerance and ability to maintain a good colour during winter months.

Common types include Sir Walter, Matilda, Palmetto and Sapphire.

Facts:

A good choice for lawns expected to be under heavy usage. Kikuyu is one of the more affordable grass types but is somewhat high in maintenance given the need for more regular mowing in summer. It’s most pleasing aspects is its ability to repair itself quickly which is why it is suited to lawns with heavy traffic. A popular choice for use in public areas and schools.

One of the disadvantages of Kikuyu is that is it very popular with weeds and is known to suffer from different diseases such as brown spot.

It is highly aggressive and can spread quickly. Utilising a male sterile Kikuyu type can reduce the spread somewhat. You will need to keep an eye on it as it is known to spread into neighbouring garden beds easily.

Facts:

If you feel that buffalo grass leaves are too broad and couch grass leaves are too fine, then Zoysia grass might be just what you are looking for. Zoysia is a slow growing grass that requires less frequent mowing when compared to Buffalo, Kikuyu and Couch. It offers more shade tolerance than couch and kikuyu and is very soft to touch so children will enjoy it. The most common type is Empire Zoysia.

Given its slow growth rate, this is one grass variety that won’t be invading your grass beds anytime soon. Whilst, like all grasses, it will require edging on occassion, the frequency will be much less compared to other grasses.

If you have sloping land, Zoysia might be a good option for you given there will be less need to mow.

It is harder to establish than most other grasses but once set it is very hard wearing and is suited to high traffic areas.

Whilst Zoysia is a strong grass and can recover from wear and tear, once it is damaged it will repair at a slow rate.

Facts:

Before you do any digging or any kind of work on the ground it is important to ensure it is weed free. The most effective way to do this is to apply some ‘Roundup’ onto any areas you plan on installing turf. It is recommended to spray Roundup in the morning to allow it to absorb into the weeds during the day. It is also best to pick a time when rain isn’t expected so that it isn’t washed away. One handy hint is to add a few drops of dishwashing liquid and a capful of Seasol if you have some handy into the Roundup bottle before you spray it, the dishwashing liquid and Seasol will help the Roundup stick to the weeds and increase the absorbtion. Roundup will need approx. 10 days to do its job. Wait 10 days then proceed to step 2.

‘Tillage’ is a phrase used to describe the preparation of soil by digging or overturning, this can be via the use of tools such as a rotary hoe or the more manual methods of shovelling, raking or using a mattock as a few examples. The easiest method and the method we recommend for this step, is to use a rotary hoe. If you don’t have rotary hoe you can hire one from stores such as Kennards Hire. Use a rotary hoe to churn the dead weeds back into the soil whilst tilling the soil at the same time. How long will it take? That is a tough question to answer but as a rough guide you should be able to get through 90m2 in a couple of hours.

Have some certified organic compost delivered and spread it over the area that will be turfed.

As a rough guide you want to aim for the soil to be mixed at a ratio of 10% sand, 90% organic compost. To put this into perspective, if you have a 1m square area of soil, add 0.2m cubed of organic compost. The amino acids along with the Humic and Fulvic within the organic compost will work to break up any clay in the soil.

If you are having difficulty locating certified organic compost, we have listed a number of suppliers at the bottom of this guide who may be able to help. If you live in Western Australia, you can also use a product called ‘Piggypost’ from DSATCO instead.

Note: whilst this step is optional and some of the products can be difficult to come by, if you want the absolute best lawn possible we recommend you follow each of the four parts below.

Part A: Add some PowerFeed to the soil.

For the Powerfeed, add one capful (10mL) to every 1L of water in a watering can and spread across the soil area.

PowerFeed contains a variety of different ingredients including fish, liquid compost and macro nutrients. It is basically a soil conditioner and liquid fertiliser combined. It is made by the same Australian company (Seasol International Pty Ltd) who make Seasol which is another excellent product. One of the other benefits of PowerFeed is that it works to break down clay soils and reduces nutrient loss in sandy soils.

Part B: Add some Bactivate.

Bactivate is available in 25kg bags. It is “a microbial soil conditioner composed of 5 specific bacillus species that enhance plant growth and protection.” Apply as per packet instructions.

Part C: Add some Bentonite Clay

Bentonite is a natural clay with no added chemicals. It will save you time and money in the long term due to its water and fertiliser efficiency. When used in conjunction with compost, it will aid soil wetability, increase water holding capacity and improve soil structure.

To apply Bentonite, spread its clay granules over the soil surface at a rate of 0.5 – 2kg per 1m2.

Part D: Add some Zeolite.

Zeolite is known to produce significant grass root improvement. It allows your turf to have a dense feeder root system and similar to Bentonite, it allows for less fertiliser to be used.

Zeolite is available in 15kg bags with 1kg needed per square meter.

Cultivating your soil is an important part of this process as it will cause the nitrogen in the soil to be released and converted into a usable form for your turf. Cultivation will also remediate any deep compaction that has occurred.

Grab your rotary hoe again and cultivate the soil at a depth of approx. 350mm. If you can, it is beneficial to go a bit deeper, this can be difficult though depending on the machine you are using.

The fact that you have already added organic compost means the soil won’t be too thin.

Use a nail rake to roughly level the soil. Once complete, grab a soil spreader to further level the soil as flat as possible then give it a light rake with a wide plastic rake.

When levelling, keep in mind that it is best to ensure that any soil gradients slope away from your house to assist with good drainage.

Ideally, you want to see the soil have a depth of at least 10cm.

If you have driveways and/or pathways, you will want to leave enough height space for the leaf of the grass to be above the paths. If you are using Kikuyu or Buffalo grass, ensure your soil height is below the top of your driveway/path by approx. 4cm. If you are using Couch grass, 2cm should be sufficient.

Before beginning this step please keep in mind that we are compacting the soil for stability purposes and to maintain its shape and grading. We do not want to make the ground rock hard as this will make it very difficult for the turf roots to grow and for water to penetrate.

Lightly hose the soil and then complete the compaction using a Plate Compactor. You should be able to hire one from your local hardware or equipment hire shop. If your soil is extra sandy, this may take a bit longer for you.

Once compact, use your large plastic rake to rake over the soil again to ensure it is level.

Now it’s time to begin laying the turf. Tip: It is best to have your new turf delivered on the day you plan to install it, that way it won’t dry out or suffer any damage. If the weather forecast predicts a hot day, it is recommended that you lay the turf very early in the morning (you will also want to water the grass as you go to stop it from drying out).

Start by laying the turf around the perimeter first. Install the rolls of turf around the perimeter edges and then lay the turf between the perimeter being sure to stagger the joints, similar to a brickwork pattern. Staggering the joints assists with avoiding erosion. Ensure the joints of the turf are butted close together to avoid gaps as much as possible. Gaps can cause your turf to dry out or look patchy. Weeds can also use the gaps as space to grow.

An old bread knife will come in handy if you need to cut the turf to fit certain shapes/spots.

Note: if you are installing your turf on a slope, it is best to start at the bottom and work your way to the top.

Tip: Want your lawn to look like the Melbourne Cricket Ground? Simply lay the turf in a different direction. 

Grab your compactor and do a quick lap over the grass which you have just laid.

There is no need to be fancy, just do a nice quick lap to ensure the roots are sitting nicely within the soil.

The use of the compactor will ensure there are no large air pockets which may hamper the growth of the grass and its chance for survival.

If you really want to give your new turf the best chance of survival and want to see it flourish, give it some Molasses and Seasol.

Molasses

Molasses is very affordable to buy (expect to pay around $20 per 10L) and can help boost micro flora and fauna contained within soils. A boost to these can assist with the natural defence of lawn pests. It is highly recommended to be used on lawns which are susceptible to nematodes. You can refer to the list of suppliers below if you would like to purchase some.

To apply Molasses to your lawn, add a couple of dollops to the bottom of a watering can so it covers 1/2 to 3/4 of the base, you don’t need to be too exact with the measurement. Using an old ladle can be a great way of scooping Molasses out of a bucket. Fill the watering can with water (don’t worry if it foams up) and then apply to your lawn.

Seasol

Seasol is a great product which assists with increasing nutrient uptake and stimulating root growth. It can be beneficial for giving new lawns a helping hand during early stages of settlement.

Add 50ml to a 9L watering can and then fill with water. Apply evenly over your newly installed turf.

You’ve worked hard to give your new lawn the best chance of success but all the effort doesn’t stop after its installed. Quality aftercare during the few weeks following installation is critical to ensuring your lawn not only survives but prospers.

If you are in the market for a new hose and connector, the following are recommended:

Nylex NeverKink Garden Hose – available at Bunnings. It is one of the only hoses that really doesn’t kink!

Gardena Maxi-Flo Nozzle – available at speciality irrigation stores. These nozzles are nearly unbreakable. They are made for 18mm hoses so you will need to unscrew the tap nut on the end and replace it with one that fits standard 12mm hoses.